GIAN CARLO'S RISTORANTE,

From Providence, the trip to Gian Carlo's is only about 20 minutes of straight highway driving. But once inside, you may feel as though you boarded a plane and traveled through several time zones to reach your destination. The dining area, with its gilt-framed artwork and period curios, has a distinct European feel. Baskets of fresh Italian bread with extra virgin olive oil come with the meal, while the bruschetta appetizers are delightfully crispy and garlicky. For a main course, try the "Penne Primavera" ($11.95), a pasta cooked to al dente firmness and tossed with strips of onions, red and green peppers, and zucchini medallions in a light red sauce of juicy chunks of tomatoes. And don't forget dessert. On the night we went, I had to restrain myself from snatching the huge tray of selections for my own self-imposed taste test. But I eventually decided on the chocolate cream nut torte ($4.95). My reason? A quick calculation of the high ratio of chocolate per square inch. What more could I want?

Full review.